Many people have told me the Willamette Valley is utopia. Some of them live there, the others aspire to. On my last trip to the area, I visited a literal utopia myself. And you can too. You can even bring a bit of it home with you.

Of course, everyone has a slightly different concept of utopia. Dan Warnshuis began refining his ideas on it in the late 1990s. In 2000, bought land to make them real. Next, he planted six clones of Pinot Noir, five French ones plus Swan from California. Utopia vineyard was born.

Dan Warnshuis in his Utopia Vineyard

Warnshuis gravitated to wine at young age. He began collecting and cellaring wine at 23. Soon, he started a wine import-export business in Napa Valley, a sideline to his tech job. By 1994, he was also producing wine under his own label,  Le Corse. But he wanted even more involvement. He wanted to own his own vineyards and winery, and have a full roster of wines.

Utopia Estate

The first Utopia estate Pinot Noir came out in 2005. Now, Utopia produces about eight wines, mostly from its own 17 planted acres: Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Blanc, Chardonnay, rosé, and a non-estate, late-harvest Riesling dessert wine.

Dan Warnshuis is fascinated by Pinot Noir clones and selections, their diversity, and the complexity they can bring to a blended wine. In 2005, he added Calera Jensen, Calera Reed, Shea, Pommard, Wadenswil, and two selections from Archery Summit. There are also at least three different rootstocks.

The 2008 Utopia Estate Pinot Noir blended 11 clones/selections. As of 2013, the Estate Pinot includes 12. The Chardonnay is itself a three-clone wine. Right now, production is about 3,000 cases. That will increase before long, as Warnshuis bought additional property nearby and is working to turn it into a vineyard.

Vintages

As with many Willamette Valley wines, those from Utopia do well with a bit of age. Though my visit was this year and there are 2017s on the market, we tasted 2013, 2014 and 2015. All but one are still available from Utopia’s online store.

Warnshuis tells me that 2014 was a warm year, but the daytime temperatures never rose above 93°. 2015 was also warm, but “spiky” with several days in July and August exceeding 93°. One expects wines from the latter year to be somewhat more fruit forward than those of 2014. The 2013 vintage began a little early, due to a warm spring. It was a normal year thereafter, until dramatic rains fell in late September. That caused issues for many growers, but Utopia had already harvested.

Ribbon Ridge AVA

Utopia is in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, a small region nested within the much larger Chehalem Mountains AVA. Ribbon Ridge holds about 700 vine acres, out of roughly 1,000 that could conceivably be planted. The AVA’s growers have a strong focus on organic growing and dry farming. Warnshuis, who is presently president of the AVA’s winegrowers’ association tells me that the region should be 100% herbicide-free this year. His own vines are farmed organically.

2014 Utopia Estate Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley 92+ $45

This elegant, lemon-colored Chardonnay offers notes of flint, yellow apple, and apple leaf. The medium-bodied, supple, and gently juicy palate features long flavors of apple, pear, and butterscotch.

2013 Utopia Estate Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley 93 $55

Medium garnet in color with a pretty, well-developed nose of drying rose petal, strawberry, spice, sandalwood, cranberry and dried tangerine peel. The palate has medium body, a dusting of very fine, smooth tannins and long flavors which match the nose. This is sophisticated Pinot with a nose which keeps blossoming and offering more as the wine breathes.

2014 Utopia Estate Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley 91+ $55

Riper red fruit than in the 2013 wafts from the garnet-colored wine. Look for poached red cherry, blackberry, bran cereal, and baking spice. Body is on the generous side of medium with notable acidity and very fine tannins which still offer a touch of grip. Flavors are nicely concentrated and focused on tangerine peel and ripe red and black fruit.

2015 Utopia Estate Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley 92 $55

Just starting to turn garnet, the 2015 also shows both its vintage and also the structure young, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir can have. The nose is still a little shy, but includes pleasing notes of red cherry, bran cereal, dark spice, and dark flowers. Like the 2014, body here is on the generous side of medium. But, due to the warmth of the vintage, acidity is lower in the 2015, alcohol more noticeable, and the overall vibe more about structure and power. The flavors are a core of tangy fruit accented by tea.

2014 Utopia Estate Reserve Pinot Noir “Paradise” Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley 93 NA

While the main, estate Pinot Noir is a blend of at least 12 clones and selections, the “Paradise” Reserve includes only Pommard, 777, and Wadenswil. The nose and palate are about pretty, red fruited complemented by pot pourri, and elegant baking spice. The intensity and length are satisfying. The tannins are moderate and fine with some grip. I’m told it’s a good match for beef bourguignon.

2014 Utopia Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Clone 777 Whole-Cluster Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley 93 $75

This single-clone, 100% whole-cluster Pinot has a lovely, complex nose of Earl Grey tea, tobacco, red cherry broth, and cranberry sauce. The wine’s youth remains very much in evidence on the palate in the form of fine-grained, but very firm tannins. There’s loads of potential here, but you’ll want to hold it until at least its 10th birthday to get the most out of it.

Copyright Fred Swan 2020. Photos courtesy of Utopia. All rights reserved.

About the author: Fred Swan is an Oakland-based writer, educator, and event sommelier. He’s written on wine and spirits for GuildSomm.com, Daily.SevenFifty.com, The Tasting Panel, SOMM Journal, PlanetGrape.com, and more. Fred teaches a wide range of classes at the San Francisco Wine School. He’s founder/producer of Wine Writers’ Educational Tours, an annual, educational conference for professional wine writers. He also leads seminars, private wine tours, and conducts tastings, dinners, and events for wineries, companies, and private parties. Fred’s certifications include WSET Diploma, Certified Sommelier, California Wine Appellation Specialist, Certified Specialist of Wine, French Wine Scholar, Italian Wine Professional, Napa Valley Wine Educator, Northwest Wine Appellation Specialist, and Level 3 WSET Educator. He’s three times been awarded a fellowship by the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.