Ehlers Estate is one of the excellent, historic vineyards in the St. Helena AVA. The winery’s name is an homage to Bernard Ehlers who bought and revitalized the site’s 10-acre vineyard in the 1880s, then completed its stone barn in 1886. Today, that building is the tasting room. 

Ehlers and his family rapidly expanded the original vineyard to about 42 contiguous planted acres that surround the barn and, now, winery. Its current varieties are Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon (six clones), Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Petit Verdot.

The estate is north of the town of St. Helena and just east of Highway 29. It sits in the breezy corridor formed by the convergence of the Mayacamas and Vaca Ranges. The wind drives growing-season temperatures down dramatically in the evening, creating the potential for beautifully ripe, but lively, wines.

Winemaking

Over the past 20 or so years I’ve been tasting the Ehlers Estate wines, my favorites have typically been the impeccably balanced Merlot and the juicy Sauvignon Blanc. In July 2018, the estate changed winemakers, with Laura Díaz Muñoz taking the helm. I was curious about how the wines might change under her guidance, so I met with her that fall and once or twice more in 2019.

Muñoz is originally from Spain and got degrees in biology there, then a post-graduate, enology degree in Madrid. She worked in various Spanish regions, but the country’s old-school attitude toward women didn’t allow her to work in the cellars. She solved that problem by going to New Zealand, then Chile. In 2007, she headed to  Napa Valley where she worked with Chris Carpenter on the excellent wines of Cardinale, Mt. Brave, and Lokoya.

In our first meeting, I asked what changes, if any, she anticipated making. Muñoz told me she has a different, less Bordelais vision for the wines than her predecessor. And she hopes to elevate quality by further sub-dividing the vineyard blocks based on soil maps, lowering yields, and fostering more layers in the wines with a wider array of fermentation vessels.

In the vineyard, Muñoz isn’t afraid to drop fruit to aid concentration, even if that lowers case volumes. She also wants to add smaller fermenters, so she can vinify more components separately. And she told me she figured to let New World character show more.

The phrase “let New World character show” is open to interpretation and some producers take it to an extreme. If you lean toward Old World sensibilities, rather than big flavor, the idea might concern you. I wondered what it would actually mean for the wines. So far, so good! 

The only released wine Muñoz has had sole control over thus far, 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, is indeed better than its predecessor (which was quite good itself). The new wine is longer, has more presence, and is more tropical.

The recently released reds, too, are an improvement, even though her role with them has been limited to finishing. And all the wines are nimble, balanced, and lovely—not a bit over-the-top.

Of course, considering vintage variation and other potential variables, it’s difficult to make conclusive judgements from a single set of wines. And changes are still ongoing, as Muñoz likes to experiment and is always open to adopting something new if trials prove it beneficial.

Reviews of Ehlers Estate Wines

2018 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc St. Helena, Napa Valley 93+ 13.6% 750ml $32

Laura Díaz Muñoz likes to use a wide variety of fermentation vessels for her Sauvignon Blanc, including stainless steel and concrete along with new and used oak barrels. Each type of fermenter does something different for the wine and also adds complexity. Ehlers Estate has now added a concrete fermenter. 4-5% of the 2019 vintage will have been fermented in new oak. Going forward, used barrels will be available too. 

This wine, however, fermented solely in stainless steel tanks with selected yeasts that promote tropical notes while combatting reduction. [That tropical character is something Munoz loves and which she identifies as a hallmark of California Sauvignon Blanc. ] The wine aged six months, sur lie, in stainless steel barrels and was stirred weekly.

The nose is charming—delectable guava, lemon-lime, underripe nectarine, and a spray of tropical flowers. The very long palate is tangier than the nose, its flavors dancing with acidity. The main notes are grapefruit, lemon-lime, guava, and mineral. It’s bone-dry in the mouth with medium body and very fine texture. Balance between fruit, acidity, and alcohol is excellent. Enjoy now through 2021.

2016 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Franc St. Helena, Napa Valley 94+ 14.5% 750ml $65

Whenever I’ve met with Muñoz, Merlot and Cabernet Franc have been a topic of conversation. I’d always appreciated the Ehlers Estate Merlot. And Cabernet Franc is one of my favorite varieties, when made well. She’s on the same page.

“These varieties have soul,” she says. “They can be a point of differentiation. But a lot of wineries have made Merlot like Cabernet Sauvignon.” [I agree completely.] She says she’ll work on managing the ripeness St. Helena can provide, getting extended hang time without going too far.

There’s no mistaking the 2016 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Franc for a wine from either Chinon or Bordeaux. But you won’t mistake it for any variety other than Cabernet Franc either. 

The wine is deep purple in the glass and dazzlingly fragrant with medium-dark chocolate plus classic Cabernet Franc aromas of dark flowers, mulberry, and blueberry. The sensuous, full-bodied palate offers plenty of soft, velvety tannins to frame intense and luscious flavors of blueberry, mulberry, dark chocolate mousse, spice, and oak. The juicy finish goes on and on. This is a gorgeous wine and a super value for Napa Valley. Drink now through 2027.

2016 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena, Napa Valley 92+ 14.5% 750ml $55

Ehlers Estate has Cabernet Sauvignon focus and those wines showed very well in my tastings too. This particular wine is complex on the nose, and brimming with happy fruit. Boysenberry, syrupy blackberry, black currant, and huckleberry leap out of the glass. Dark mocha, carob, spice, and graham cracker add interest. Flavors echo the nose and its fruit-forward nature, but with darker spices and the addition of bay leaf. There’s medium-plus body in the mouth with less voluminous, but firmer, tannins than the Cabernet Franc. Another very good value. Drink now though 2030.

2015 Ehlers Estate 1886 Cabernet Sauvignon 94 14.2% 750ml $135

The original Ehlers vineyard, now referred to as the 1886 block, is located on the right side as you enter the estate. The vines grow in very rocky, alluvial soil that’s consistent throughout the plot. The block is represented by this wine, the flagship for Ehlers Estate.

The 2015 version is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. It’s dark ruby in color and fruit-driven on the nose and palate with very fresh, red cherry at the fore. Accents are pretty spice, dark flowers, and oak. Body is nearly full. A healthy amount of fine, somewhat chalky tannins lend structure and bolster the wine’s capacity for aging, without impeding the long finish. Balanced and delicious. Drink now through 2035.

Sustainability

The Ehlers Estate vineyard is farmed sustainably and received CCOF, organic certification in 2008. 

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. Vineyard and tasting room images courtesy of Ehlers Estate. All rights reserved.

About the author: Fred Swan is an Oakland-based writer, educator, and event sommelier. He’s written on wine and spirits for GuildSomm.com, Daily.SevenFifty.com, The Tasting Panel, SOMM Journal, PlanetGrape.com, and more. Fred teaches a wide range of classes at the San Francisco Wine School. He’s founder/producer of Wine Writers’ Educational Tours, an annual, educational conference for professional wine writers. He also leads seminars, private wine tours, and conducts tastings, dinners, and events for wineries, companies, and private parties. Fred’s certifications include WSET Diploma, Certified Sommelier, California Wine Appellation Specialist, Certified Specialist of Wine, French Wine Scholar, Italian Wine Professional, Napa Valley Wine Educator, Northwest Wine Appellation Specialist, and Level 3 WSET Educator. He’s three times been awarded a fellowship by the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.