Rodgers Creek Vineyard sits near the crest of the Sonoma Mountains, where Highway 116 crosses the ridge which separates the Petaluma and Sonoma sides of the county. The vineyard is at the eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap AVA (established in December 2017). It is also within the much larger Sonoma Coast AVA.

Though Rodgers Creek Vineyard has a generally western facing, and its Syrah block largely looks southwest, the site is effectively cool. Altitude, morning fog, and the AVA’s famous, cold winds balance the sunny afternoons. Wines made from its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah grapes can be ripe and generous, but simultaneously fresh, and feature savory flavors to complement the fruit.

Planting on the site began in the early 2000s. In 2002, David Ramey was able to specify which clones of Syrah would be planted in the block from which he would take fruit. The altitude there is 800 feet and Ramey tells me “it’s pretty damn windy,” though a large tree provides some protection.

Wind doesn’t just slow ripening by lowering temperature. Intense winds can dehydrate grape vines. To counteract that, vines close the stomata on the underside of their leaves. [Vines “exhale” oxygen and moisture the stomata.] When the stomata are closed, ripening—including development of color, flavors, and texture—stops.

Ramey chose Entav-Inra clones 470 and 877. Both hail from the Tarn-et-Garonne region in Southwest France. They produce especially dark, tannic grapes and aromatic, concentrated wines. The clones were grafted onto 110R rootstock, which is very good on hillsides and highly drought resistant.

Viognier makes up about 5% of the block, to facilitate co-fermentations with the Syrah. Co-fermenting these two varieties actually leads to deeper color than the Syrah would typically deliver alone. David Ramey tells me that co-fermenting with Viognier also “makes the Syrah more Syrah-like.” And Viognier commonly shows black pepper aromas, even as a 100% varietal wine.

All these factors combine to ensure a rich wine, even if climate and topography limit ripeness. David Ramey says Syrah has phenolic structure more similar to Pinot Noir than to Cabernet Sauvignon. “I’ve learned you don’t have to pick at high brix and I treat it pretty much like Pinot Noir,” he tells me.

2014 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard 95 14.5% 750ml $65

The wine is opaque ruby-purple in the glass and powerfully, delightfully aromatic, replete with bacon fat, black pepper, dark flowers, black plum, garrigue, and deli meat. The very long, intense, and full-bodied palate shows those same flavors, along with an appetizing streak of ferrous minerality. Structure comes from very fine, soft tannins and notable acidity. This is a great wine, one which lives in the delicious middle-ground between lean, savory Northern Rhone Syrah and the voluptuously fruited wines of warm, New World regions. Enjoy it over the next ten years.

The 2014 vintage, Ramey’s current release is 10% Viognier, co-fermented. One quarter of the Syrah was fermented whole-cluster. The wine aged 25 months in 100% new, Francois Fréres oak barrels. Ramey let it integrate in tank for 4-5 months after blending, then bottled without filtration. He made just 400 cases.

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. Photos of Tom Gendall and the chickens courtesy of Cline. All rights reserved.

About the author: Fred Swan is an Oakland-based wine writer, educator, and event sommelier. He’s written for GuildSomm.com, Daily.SevenFifty.com, The Tasting Panel, SOMM Journal, PlanetGrape.com, and more. Fred teaches a wide range of classes at the San Francisco Wine School. He’s founder/producer of Wine Writers’ Educational Tours, an annual, educational conference for professional wine writers. He also leads seminars, private wine tours, and conducts tastings, dinners, and events for wineries, companies, and private parties. Fred’s certifications include WSET Diploma, Certified Sommelier, California Wine Appellation Specialist, Certified Specialist of Wine, French Wine Scholar, Italian Wine Professional, Napa Valley Wine Educator, Northwest Wine Appellation Specialist, and Level 3 WSET Educator. He’s twice been awarded a fellowship by the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.