Anaba Wines takes its name from anabatic wind, which rushes to fill low-pressure zones created by hot air rising rapidly from sun-baked earth. It’s an important phenomenon in many wine-growing regions.

Wind is the most defining feature of the Carneros AVA. Cold ocean breezes sweep through the Petaluma Gap, twenty-some miles to the west. Less extreme winds also come from San Pablo Bay to the south. Together, they keep vineyard temperatures notably lower in the afternoon than neighboring AVAs to the north and east. This allows for longer growing seasons, better retention of acidity, and makes Carneros an extremely versatile growing area.

It’s also the wind that pushed John Thomas Sweazey to buy a 16-acre parcel at the intersection of Arnold Dr. and Highway 112. It was a promising growing area and one where cold air whips through the vines as it does in the Northern Rhone, a growing region of which he has very fond memories.

John Thomas Sweazey (right) and his son John Michael Sweazey, who joined the winery in 2017. Behind them, to the west, are hills and, beyond those, the Petaluma Gap.

The wind does more than keep wines crisp. In 2009, Sweazey added a 45-foot wind turbine to generate electricity. It was the first at a northern California winery. It provides a portion of Anaba’s power and also runs a Tesla charger for customers.

Anaba Vintner’s House

While Anaba Wines has had a small tasting room adjacent to the vineyard for many years, they have long made the wine offsite on Eighth Street. Earlier this year though, they completed construction of their own, dedicated winery at the vineyard. And, in October, Anaba opened a new, much larger tasting salon called the Vintner’s House. I went to the opening celebration they had for media, which included lunch and an extensive tasting.

The new Anaba Wines tasting room is spacious and appropriately airy. Numerous windows offer great views of the vineyard and surrounding landscape. In the back, there’s a bocce court. The Sweazey’s are paddle tennis enthusiasts and plan to add a court for that also.

With the new tasting facility comes new experiences. There are three levels of tasting: Classic ($25), Estate Flight ($35), and Vintner’s Reserve ($55-$65). Each lasts about 45 minutes. There are also two group experiences, a blending session and a pizza and bocce party. Reservations are either recommended or required for all but the Classic tasting.

Anaba Wines

Anaba Wines works only Burgundian and Rhone varieties. All are from Sonoma County vineyards, except one Pinot Noir from Soberanes in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Katy Wilson and Ross Cobb have been co-winemakers for Anaba since 2014.

2018 Anaba Viognier Landa Vineyard, Sonoma Valley 91+ 13.7% 750ml $36

This elegant, juicy Viognier hails from southern Sonoma Valley, near Bartholomew Park. The juice fermented and aged only in stainless steel. (Anaba also has a barrel-fermented Viognier from the same vineyard.) Malolactic conversion was prevented. The aromas and long flavors are of hibiscus, underripe nectarine and green tea. Body is medium-plus, balance is very good and leans toward freshness.

2017 Anaba Chardonnay Westlands Sonoma Coast 93 14.2% 750ml $58

This wine is barrel selection from Mill Station and Klopp vineyards far west in the Sonoma Coast AVA, hence “Westlands.” The wine spends just 6 months in barrel, only a quarter of which is new. Katy Wilson says the goal is a “beautiful, austere, vibrant” style. The wine has excellent intensity on nose and palate, with notes of golden apple, toast, baking spice, cream, oak, and tangy stone fruit. Body is medium-plus and acidity frames the fruit.

2014 Anaba Pinot Noir Westlands Sonoma Coast 94 13.0% 750ml $54 (library)

The Westlands Pinot came from three vineyards and aged 20 months in barrel. This particular wine is from their library and no longer for sale. The nose is intense, exotic, and very pretty. I found Moroccan spices, meaty bing cherry skin, sandalwood, and a hint of dry leather. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine, well-integrated tannins which give structure to the fleshy fruit, dry leaves, and bergamot. The finish is juicy and elegant.

2016 Anaba Syrah Bismark Vineyard, Moon Mountain 93 14.9% 750ml $48

The vineyard slopes steeply from 2,100 feet in the Moon Mountain AVA, at the top of Cavedale Road. 35% of the fruit was fermented whole cluster. The deep purple wine smells of dark plum and pie spices. The palate is bold with ripe but chewy black plum, black cherry, and blackberry, dark spices, violets, sweet cream, and vanilla. Tannins are fine-grained and textural, but well-integrated and don’t interfere with the flavors.

2016 Anaba Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 91 13.7% 750ml $36

Four vineyards contributed to this barrel-fermented Chardonnay. Half of the wine went through ML and it all spent 17 months sur lie in oak. The nose features concentrated notes of golden and green apples, with accents of apple leaf and flint. In the mouth, body is on the generous side of medium with rich flavors that mirror the nose but also include baking spices. Acidity builds for a juicy finish.

2016 Anaba Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 91 13.8% 750ml $42

This wine represents five vineyards, five clones, and six different harvest dates, all fermented separately. The wine aged for 20 months in French oak, 35% of which was new. The nose shows grilled black cherry and pie spices. The palate adds dark berries. Body is medium-plus and the tannins are fine and well-integrated, offering just a bit of grip.

2018 Anaba Late Harvest Viognier Sonoma Valley 94 14.2% 375ml $32

This is a late-harvest wine, but there was no botrytis in the fruit. The grapes were basket-pressed in two-to-four ton lots. The wine is pure, showing ripe, yet tangy apricot that’s especially intense on the palate. It’s a dessert wine, but not overly sweet and there is notable acidity. The finish is extremely long.

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. All rights reserved.

About the author: Fred Swan is an Oakland-based wine writer, educator, and event sommelier. He’s written for GuildSomm.com, Daily.SevenFifty.com, The Tasting Panel, SOMM Journal, PlanetGrape.com, and more. Fred teaches a wide range of classes at the San Francisco Wine School. He’s founder/producer of Wine Writers’ Educational Tours, an annual, educational conference for professional wine writers. He also leads seminars, private wine tours, and conducts tastings, dinners, and events for wineries, companies, and private parties. Fred’s certifications include WSET Diploma, Certified Sommelier, California Wine Appellation Specialist, Certified Specialist of Wine, French Wine Scholar, Italian Wine Professional, Napa Valley Wine Educator, Northwest Wine Appellation Specialist, and Level 3 WSET Educator. He’s twice been awarded a fellowship by the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.