I’ve got fresh reviews of three current releases from Gary Farrell Winery, based on samples, below. There’s two Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir, all from the Russian River Valley. Gary Farrell Winery has always been strongly associated with that region. 

The wine style has evolved several times over its 37-year history. Since Theresa Heredia took on the winemaking there in 2012, I’ve found the wines increasingly transparent to terroir. Because the winery has so many vineyard designate wines, you can take a precise and compelling virtual tour of the Russian River Valley while sitting comfortably in the winery’s sunny tasting room.

I did that recently. It was a social occasion with friends, not a work visit, so I don’t have detailed notes to share. But I was compelled to pry open my slender wallet so I could go home with a bottle of the 2016 Lancel Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir. It’s absolutely lovely and a wonderful, vinous tribute to the late Ulises Valdez, Sr. who planted the vines in that uber-cool site, which his family still owns, just a mile from Occidental in the Sonoma Coast AVA.

Obviously, Lancel Creek Vineyard is not in the Russian River Valley. These days, you can let Gary Farrell Winery take you well-beyond that AVA. In fact, my favorite wine of the visit was made from a very distant vineyard, Bien Nacido in the Santa Maria Valley of Santa Barbara County.

Again, the winemaking produced a Pinot Noir which is a clear and mellifluous ode to site. Bien Nacido is as good as any vineyard in California. It expresses with its own unique timbre the distinctive notes of Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir. Toward the northeastern edge of the AVA, Bien Nacido gets plenty of cool air and fog, but isn’t as bracing as plantings on the westernmost edge, closest to the ocean. The Pinot Noir features the hallmark black cherry fruit and dark, savory notes of tea, spice and earth, but is more baritone than tenor. I couldn’t resist buying one of those too.

Three Current Releases from Gary Farrell Winery 

2017 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection, Russian River Valley AVA, Sonoma County 91+ 13.7% 750ml $35

This is a refreshing and focused portrait of the Russian River Valley with enticing aromas of tart yellow apples—both fresh and very lightly poached in butter then delicately dusted with baking spice. Body is a generous medium with fairly fine-boned structure, from both light-linen texture and acidity that does gentle barrel rolls on the tongue. Flavors begin with a note of flinty mineral, quickly followed by tart yellow apple, lemon, and baking spice. Hints of nectarine and of country bread with the thinnest-possible layer of butter add interest. Enjoy on its own or with light fare, now through 2022. Very good value.

2016 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard, Russian River Valley AVA, Sonoma County 93 13.4% 750ml $45

Aromas of  pear, golden apple, and baking spice immediately burst from the glass.A gentle swirl and sniff reveals lemon zest, apple leaf, and creamy custard. The crisp, juicy, medium-bodied palate is more disciplined, and less ripe, than the nose. Very light creaminess, acidity and structural dry extract tug gently against each other to create a taut palate that will thrive with delicate foods, such as poached, or very gently pan-roasted, white fish. This Chardonnay should build in intensity and complexity with moderate aging. It’s ready-to-drink now, but will be best from 2020 through 2024.

2016 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard Russian River Valley AVA, Sonoma County 93+ 13.9% 750ml $55

The generous and attractive nose is classic for cool vineyards in the Russian River Valley with black cherry, sarsaparilla, fresh orange zest, sweet herb, spice, and a soft, lilting accent of oak. Slippery, fine-grained tannins balance notable acidity on the medium-bodied palate. The flavors are fresh and brighter than the aromas. Expect tart raspberry and red currant, just-ripe black cherry, and tarragon, plus attractive, savory notes of earth and black tea. It will be excellent with forest mushrooms or light meat dishes, such as chicken, quail, and delicately spiced pork loin. Drink now through 2028.

Enjoy these Related Articles at FredSwan.wine

Gary Farrell Winery—New Releases and Visitor Experiences

Mediterranean Climate—Why it’s Great for Winegrowing:

Santa Maria Valley AVA: What to See and Do

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. Photos courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery. All rights reserved.

About the author: Fred Swan is an Oakland-based wine writer, educator, and event sommelier. He’s written for GuildSomm.com, Daily.SevenFifty.com, The Tasting Panel, SOMM Journal, PlanetGrape.com, and other outlets. Fred teaches a wide range of classes at the San Francisco Wine School. He’s founder/producer of Wine Writers’ Educational Tours, an annual, educational conference for professional wine writers. He also leads seminars, private wine tours, and conducts tastings, dinners, and events for wineries, companies, and private parties. Fred’s certifications include WSET Diploma, Certified Sommelier, California Wine Appellation Specialist, Certified Specialist of Wine, French Wine Scholar, Italian Wine Professional, Napa Valley Wine Educator, Northwest Wine Appellation Specialist, and Level 3 WSET Educator. He’s twice been awarded a fellowship by the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.