Cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino established their winery near Florence in 1877. Soon the wines were winning awards and Ruffino became the first Chianti exported to the United States. Ruffino now has six estate vineyards in Chianti. Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione comes from the Gretole and Santedame estates.

The wine is 80% Sangiovese with balance Merlot and Colorino. It aged one year in large and neutral Slavonian oak barrels, then another year in small, once-used barrels. 2014 was a cool, wet year in Chianti. A warm, dry September and October gave the fruit necessary ripeness, producing elegant, savory-fruited wines.

2014 Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 90 14.5% 750ml $40

Dark ruby-colored in the glass with outgoing aromas of leather, earth, dense dark cherry, and mint. The wine has medium-plus body in the mouth with moderate tannins which are fine-grained and slightly chewy. Generous acidity balances the texture and lengthens the ample flavors of dark earth, savory black cherry, aged leather, graphite, and moist tobacco. Enjoy now through 2028.

About Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG

The European Commission ratified the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG in February, 2014. Chianti Classico had become a DOC in 1967, as a sub-zone of the Chianti DOC which was created at the same time. Both were elevated to DOCG status in 1984. And, in 1996, Chianti Classico was given its own, distinct DOCG status, no longer a Chianti sub-zone.

As with the Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG has exactly the same borders as Chianto Classico DOCG, the same maximum yield, and the same basic blend requirement. All three wines must be at least 80% Sangiovese. 

The goal for Riserva, and now Gran Selezione, is to define a higher quality level. That said, the legal differences between the three different levels of Chianti Classico are small. 

Minimum alcohol level is a common way to regulate quality in Europe. The idea is that wines with low alcohol are made from grapes of relatively low ripeness, which suggests under-developed flavors and tannins. Higher alcohol also brings proportionately more body in the mouth. The minimum alcohol for Chianti Classico, Risverva, and Gran Selezione are 12.0%, 12.5%, and 13.0% respectively.

There are also slight differences in the minimum required extract (substantially tannins): 24, 25, and 26 grams-per-liter. Minimum aging also goes up from one level to the next. Chianti Classico must age for at least a year, Riserva for 24 months, and Gran Selezione for 30 months. Note that aging in oak is not a requirement at any level.

While aging doesn’t necessarily improve a wine, it can. Perhaps more importantly, wines which are thin and under-ripe don’t tend to support tank or barrel aging as well as rich ones. So one hopes this requirement will discourage producers from pushing lesser wines into the Gran Selezione category.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG wine must be made from estate fruit. The definition of estate mirrors that in the U.S. The vineyard must be owned or “controlled” by the producer, but does not have to be contiguous to the winery. Nonetheless, this requirement is unique to Gran Selezione among the three DOCG categories and it prevents aggressive increases in volume through spur-of-the-moment fruit purchases.

Introduction of the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG was met with skepticism in the industry. Many feel the requirements are still to low to ensure top quality. I understand that viewpoint. However, in my tastings, I have consistently seen relative differences between wines of a given producer at the three levels.

The wines naturally vary with producer and vintage. However, the Chianti Classico wines tend to be medium medium bodied with tart or savory fruit and a substantial amount of green flavors, be that herb, forest, or under-ripe fruit. The Gran Selezione are at least medium-plus in body with thicker and softer tannins. The flavors may still be savory, but rarely show any green. The Riserva wines fall in the middle.

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. Images courtesy of Ruffino. All rights reserved.