What does Arizona call to mind for you? I think about Spring Training, national parks, Taliesin West, hot weather, deserts, cacti, and good wine. Yes, while Arizona isn’t a major producer and stereotypes about its climate might suggest the contrary, there are some very fine wines made in the Grand Canyon State. Among them are the wines of Aridus Wine Company.

Spanish missionaries brought winemaking to the area in the 16th century. However, it’s only been in the past decade or so that Arizona’s potential for fine wine started being realized. The first AVA, Sonoita, was established in 1985. The second, the Wilcox AVA, was only ratified in 2016. It encompasses at least 75% of the state’s planted acres.

There’s good reason to associate Arizona with deserts and heat. But the wine-growing areas are concentrated in the southeast, in the vicinity of Tucson. There, very high altitude mitigates the heat and two or three inches of rain in both July and August gives vines the moisture they need to get by. 

The town of Wilcox sits at 4,167 feet. As a general rule, every 100 feet above sea level brings a 1°F drop in temperature. So Wilcox could be 40° cooler during the day than it would be without the altitude. In practice, average highs there during the growing season range from 79° to 96° and there’s a huge diurnal shift. Lows during the growing season are 40° to 65°. That drastically reduces, or even stops, growth, ripening, and loss of acidity at night. The southern latitude also means 30 minutes fewer hours of sunlight each day than in Napa Valley.

Aridus’ 40 acres of estate vineyards are about 45 miles from the town of Wilcox and roughly 1,000 feet higher. They’re in an area called Chiricahua Foothills, which is proposed as a new AVA. Red, sandy loam soils top dense river rock. 

In general, grape varieties that do well in Arizona include those from Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley, southern France, and Italy. And Malvasia Bianca, a variety normally overlooked in this country, makes very special wines in Arizona. The reviews below are based on samples.

2017 Aridus Field Blend White Wine Wilcox, Arizona 89 11.2% 750ml screw cap $28

A blend of aromatic varieties (Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, and Malvasia Bianca), this wine opens with soft, pretty aromas of jasmine, vanilla, and peach. The medium-bodied palate is lovely and refreshing with a mouthwatering finish. Flavors include mineral, lemon creme, lemon-lime, yogurt, whipped cream, and jasmine. Pair with daydreams about the Italian riviera.

2016 Aridus Graciano Cochise County, Arizona 90 14.4% 750ml $37

This savory red grabs attention with generous flavors and sensual texture. The nose is savory and very attractive, showing leather, bratwurst, deli spice, drying rose petal, orange pith, delicate red berries, and iron. In the mouth, super fine, powdery, almost slippery tannins complement ferrous earth, garrigue, and dark berry fruit. Drink now through 2023. 

2016 Aridus Syrah Cochise County, Arizona 91 15.8% 750ml $37

Deep violet in the glass with a nose that is initially very floral. Violets and lilac slowly give way to fresh herb, black fruit, leather, and black pepper. The palate is loaded with black fruit (berry, plum, and cherry) framed by fine-grained, slightly drying and persistent tannins. The fruit is ultimately overtaken by savory flavors of leather, dark spice, dried black olive, espresso, and charred wood. Pair with grilled or braised meat.

2017 Aridus Malbec Mimbres Valley AVA, Arizona 90 14.5% 750ml $36

Textbook Malbec with purple-black color and aromas of blackberry fruit leather, subtle dried sage, and ground sumac. Grilled blackberry, black plum, espresso and graphite are the primary flavors. The palate has medium-plus body and persistent tannins with both fine-grained and fine, chalky texture. Initially, the wine shows a bit of hole in the middle and finishes short. However, with just a short time breathing in the glass, the palate opens and intensifies, loses the hole, and its tannins become more velvety. Best 2020 through 2025.

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. Photos courtesy of Aridus Wine Company. All rights reserved.