In Europe, top wine regions have laws limiting the grape varieties wineries can use use. Chablis must be only Chardonnay. Bordeaux prohibits Syrah, etc. There are good, historical reasons for these laws. By and large they work, though producers sometimes rankle at the limitations.

In the New World (North and South America, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand), wine regions don’t restrict varieties. You can grow anything you like, anywhere you like. Varietal labeling in the New World prevents consumer confusion.

There are pros and cons to both systems. One of the positive aspects of the free-wheeling, no-grapes-barred approach here is the opportunity to be nicely surprised by something. Like Falanghina from Paso Robles. I didn’t see that coming.

Castoro Cellars Grows Falanghina!

Castoro Cellars, one of the oldest wineries in Paso Robles, claims to be the only California grower of Falanghina. That doesn’t seem to be true. Wrath has two rows in Monterey County. There are also seems to be a little in the Sierra Foothills and Temecula. But still, there’s not much and the plantings are all pretty new.

Falanghina is grown primarily in Campania, the southern Italian region of which Naples is the capital. The grape—actually two varieties, Falanghina Flegrea and Falanghina Beneventana, which are used interchangeably and often blended together—is also grown to a much less extent in other southern Italian areas, especially Abruzzo and Puglia.

In southern Italy, Falanghina offers high acidity, a welcome characteristic given the warm climate, and aromas and flavors of apple, pear, orange-colored citrus, the leaves thereof, mineral and flowers. Given the similarity of climate between southern Italy and Paso Robles—warm to hot Mediterranean—Castoro’s planting Falanghina isn’t at all crazy.

Castoro Cellars sent me a few wine samples not long ago and included the 2015 Falanghina among them. It’s the first vintage they’ve made of that variety. I hope they continue the program. It’s a very tasty wine and was a welcome change from the usual suspects among white varieties we all taste day in, day out.

2015 Castoro Cellars Falanghina Paso Robles 88+ 13.5% 750ml $30

A dry, aromatic wine with a slightly oxidative style that suits the variety well. The nose is lightly perfumey with notes of honey, toast, dried flowers, dried lemon peel, apples and pears. It has medium body with very fine texture in the mouth and is very juicy from the start, tangy on the finish. Dried tropical fruit flavors predominate.

The Castoro Falanghina is a nice, versatile food wine, though it certainly drinks well by itself. The flavor profile and acidity will match well with cheese and nuts before a meal, a sizzling rice soup starter, and a steamed fish with lemongrass main. A white pizza would work well too.

About Castoro Cellars

Castoro Cellars has been making wine in the Paso Robles area for more than 35 years. Their tasting room on Hwy 46 West in Templeton is open daily.

They have seven estate vineyards in different parts of the AVA. All the vineyards are certified SIP sustainable and more than 350 acres of them are certified organic.

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. Images courtesy of Castoro Cellars. All rights reserved.

Note: This article was updated on the publication date to reflect new info about other Falanghina in CA.