Youngberg Hill produces Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris from its 20-acre, estate vineyard in the McMinnville AVA of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Famed Willamette Valley vintner Ken Wright planted the property’s first 11 acres of Pinot Noir vines in 1989 to provide fruit for Panther Creek. 1996 saw the first wine release under the name Youngberg Hill, which is also the geographical name of the hill on which the property sits. In 2003, Wayne Bailey and family bought the property and they continue to operate it today. Wayne guides the farming and makes the wine.

The Youngberg Hill vineyard is only 25 miles from the ocean, ranging from 500 to 800 feet in the eastern foothills of the Coastal Range. But the mountains produce a rain shadow, which makes the site a touch sunnier and drier than some other parts of Willamette Valley.

Natural and sustainable

The property is 50 acres overall, with four vineyard blocks now totaling 20 acres. The non-irrigated vineyard has been farmed organically since 2003 and biodynamically since 2011. The winery is Demeter certified, but the vineyard isn’t. It is certified organic though and also has LIVE, Salmon-Safe, and Oregon Wine Board Sustainable certifications.

Proprietor/winemaker Wayne Bailey

Wayne Bailey studies biodynamics, but doesn’t believe it’s a prescription which should be followed blindly. He focuses on a healthy farm/garden ecosystem and tries to help the vineyard maintain its own health. For example, he finds that burning vine cuttings kills mildew spores and spreading the ash tends to inhibit new outbreaks. He’s seen a marked increase in the liveliness of the soil, including a booming earthworm population, since converting to natural farming. And he finds the fruit is more balanced and ripens more evenly.

Vineyard transparency is core to his winemaking. He wants the wine to reflect the individual sites as much as possible. And he realizes that anything you do in the vineyard or winery is intervention and believes that giving the vineyard and wines the opportunity to sort themselves out is often more effective than taking an active role, so, so he tries to do as little as possible and the wines are all made naturally.

Youngberg Hill estate wines

2017 Youngberg Hill Aspen Pinot Gris McMinnville AVA 90+ 13.7% 750ml screw cap* $25

There are 2.5 acres of Pinot Gris in the Aspen block. Bailey planted the Dijon 49 and 52 clones in 2006. The vines are in marine sedimentary soil at altitudes from 525 to 600 feet. The wine always finishes with a little residual sugar, which varies with the vintage, but it’s low enough that the wine can be considered dry.

Bailey makes the wine in a fresh style with no malolactic fermentation. The result is juicy and appetizing with light texture and satisfying weight. The nose offers apple, peach, apple leaf and white flowers. Flavors include ripe green apple, tart yellow apple, citrus, and underripe stone fruit. The finish, extended by the slight sweetness, is quite long.

*Youngberg Hill switched entirely to screwcap in 2009 in order to eliminate risk of TCA and to improve bottle-to-bottle consistency in aging.

2016 Youngberg Hill Aspen Chardonnay McMinnville AVA 92 12.9% 750ml screw cap $40

The other half of the Aspen block holds four French clones of Chardonnay. Wayne Bailey looks to Burgundy for his inspiration with the winemaking and intends the wines to be age worthy. He ferments the juice in barrels, 50% of which are previously used. The wine undergoes full, spontaneous ML and is then racked. It ages a total of eight months, the first four sur lie. 

Aromas of gentle oak, baking spice, toasted bread, flint and yellow apple lead into a very finely textured palate with medium body. Flavors are generous and match the nose at the outset, but the long finish adds lemon creme and mineral. This is a lovely wine with an excellent balance of acidity and richness.

2016 Youngberg Hill Bailey Pinot Noir McMinnville AVA 91 14.1% 750ml screw cap $50

Planted in 2008, the 3.5 acre Bailey block is all Dijon 777 Pinot Noir on soil that is predominantly volcanic, but has a ribbon of shale running beneath the surface.

Macerated black cherry leads the aromas, with notes of dark spice and smoke adding complexity. The medium-bodied palate matches those flavors, but is more savory than the nose and also includes mineral and earth. Structure is provided by fine, moderate tannins and gentle juiciness. A delightful, immediately accessible Pinot with young-vine exuberance.

2016 Youngberg Hill J Block Pinot Noir McMinnville AVA 93 14.1% 750ml screw cap $50

The five-acre, Jordan block is all own-rooted Pinot Noir, 60% Pommard and 40% Wadenswil, planted by Ken Wright in 1989. The site’s uplifted volcanic soils slope aggressively from 800 feet down to 750. Due to the higher altitude, this block runs 2° cooler than Bailey. So, even though it often hits bud break first, harvest is typically ten days later than in the lower blocks. 

Even with the longer hang-time, Jordan is much more savory and acid driven than Bailey. And it’s a wine which will age very well.

The nose is dry earth and forest floor, dark mineral, savory dark fruit, with a subtle accent of oak. The juicy, medium-bodied palate is framed by fine tannins—some soft, some firm. The flavors start with dry, tangy herb, dark berries, and dark mineral. With air, red cherry emerges too. Tasted without food, length is medium-plus, but that will extend with some protein to moderate the tannins. A classic, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir.

2012 Youngberg Hill Jordan Pinot Noir McMinnville AVA 92+ 13.4% 750ml screw cap

This six-and-half—year old Jordan testifies to the aging potential of Pinot from that block. This wine is beginning to show some tertiary characteristics, but still has plenty of fruit, freshness and structure. It’ll still be drinking well in another six years.

The nose opens with forest floor and mulch. Dark fruit, spice and dark mineral follow. The flavors are also dark-fruited with a complement of savory earth tones and a dash of menthol.  Vibrant acidity flows throughout the long-lasting, medium-bodied palate. The tannins are fine and fairly soft, but still offer some grip. 

2016 Youngberg Hill Natasha Pinot Noir McMinnville AVA 92 14.3% 750ml screw cap $50

The Natasha block was also planted by Ken Wright in 1989, with roughly the same clonal distribution as the Jordan. But the 6.5 acre Natasha is lower, 600 feet, and has marine sedimentary soil with clay and sand. The resulting wine is more fruit-driven than the Jordan and its tannins are softer.

The nose, a melange of red and black fruit, is a little shy right now, but the  tangy palate is generously fruity with dark floral accents. Body and acidity are medium-plus, the tannins fine and softish. The Natasha is definitely a candidate for aging, if you can resist the temptation to drink it right away, but will reach its peak a little sooner than the Jordan.

Visiting Youngberg Hill

The Youngberg Hilll tasting room, located at the vineyard, is open every day from 10am to 4pm. During the summer, they also have live music shows every Wednesday night from 6pm to 8pm. For out of town visitors, the Younberg Hill Inn has nine, well-appointed rooms and serves a delicious breakfast. I enjoyed that myself on a recent trip to the area.

Copyright Fred Swan 2019. Bottle and head shots courtesy of Youngberg Hill. All rights reserved.