Rutherford-based ZD Wines celebrates its 50th harvest this year. The winery Norman and Rosa Lee deLeuze established in 1969 is going strong and still family-owned and -operated. The second generation is represented by CEO and Director of Winemaking Robert deLeuze and President Brett deLeuze. Third-generation, Brandon deLeuze was recently promoted to Winemaker, working with Senior Winemaker Chris Pisani. Brandon’s sister, Jill deLeuze Billeci, is an active board member.

Wine production is focused on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, mostly from ZD Wines estate vineyard in Carneros, and Cabernet Sauvignon, featuring fruit from their Rutherford estate near the winery on Silverado Trail. They make a few other wines too, including Rosa Lee commemorative wines which currently include a still Pinot Meunier and a Port-style dessert wine. And they recently released their first-ever traditional method sparkling wine.

The writers who attended my Wine Writers’ Educational Tour conference in Napa Valley this May were fortunate to be the first, non-ZD personnel to taste the 50th Anniversary Sparkling Cuvée. It’s 100% Chardonnay from their Carneros estate vineyard. The base wine was aged for 11 months (24% American oak, 76% stainless steel) and then aged on the lees in bottle for two years before disgorgment. Just 475 cases were made and it’s only available at the winery. I don’t have tasting notes on the wine, because I was in presentation mode when we enjoyed it.

The flagship wine for ZD Wines is Abacus, a unique, multi-vintage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon. They first made the wine in 1992 and maintain a sort of solera system for fractional blending of numerous vintages. Last year’s release, Abacus XX, includes wines from 26 vintages. Abacus XI is scheduled for release this month.

Brandon deLeuze speaking to wine writers about organic grape growing

Commitment to responsible stewardship is a core principle at ZD. Their vineyards are organically farmed and the company is certified by CCOF, Fish Friendly Farming, Napa Green Winery, and California Certified Sustainable Winegrowing. Later in the aforementioned conference, Brandon deLeuze joined Steve Matthiasson and Rory Williams at Tres Sabores to share information with the writers about organic viticulture and being a small, family-owned wineries in Napa Valley.

ZD Wines’ big, anniversary celebrations took place a month or two ago, but the winery is open for visits every day from 10am to 4pm. Reservations are suggested, and required for tours and for groups of six or more. 

2016 ZD Reserve Chardonnay Carneros 93+ 14.3% 750ml $77

This is a remarkable Chardonnay. It almost demands multiple tasting notes. Its personality varies dramatically depending on serving temperature. That’s not too unusual, but it’s rare for a wine to be so good at each level.

Each “different” ZD Reserve Chardonnay is very engaging and suited to particular types of foods. If allowed to reveal themselves sequentially, by starting very cool and allowing the wine to warm gradually, they’ll work with multiple courses of a meal, with the wine increasing in weight and intensity.

The ZD Reserve Chardonnay is a dramatic gold in the glass and very aromatic with gently baked yellow apple, peach, lemon, butter, baking spices, toast and candied ginger. At moderate temperatures, mid to high 50s, the wine is hedonistic—long and full-bodied in the mouth with satin texture and a richly flavorful, tangy palate similar to the nose, but more about stone fruit than apple. At lower temperatures, the palate is medium-bodied and crisply juicy with focused flavors of tart apple and lemon.

2016 ZD Wines Founder’s Reserve Pinot Noir Carneros 94 14.2% 750ml $82

Dark ruby in the glass and rich on the nose—ripe red and black raspberry, blood orange, star anise, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and oak. The delightfully long palate has medium-plus body with very fine, slippery tannins wrapped in mouth-coating fruit. The intense flavors double-down on the aromas with ripe raspberry at the core.

2014 ZD Wines Pinot Noir, Carneros 92 13.5% 750ml $50

I decided to open a back vintage of ZD Pinot Noir from my library for this article as well. It’s drinking extremely well right now and still youthful. The nose offers black cherry, dark berries toasted wood, smoke, tarragon, while the supple, medium-bodied palate is more red-fruited. Ripe strawberry, bing cherry jam, cola, and savory mocha mingle with a moderate dose of very fine, well-integrated tannins.

2015 ZD Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 92 14.8% 750ml $75

A relative bargain, this wine will hit all the marks for lovers of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s opaque in the glass and full-bodied in the mouth with luxuriously viscous black currant fruit, mocha, carob, dark spice, and well-toasted oak. A wealth of very finely textured tannins frame the long-lasting flavors.

Copyright Fred Swan 2018. Historic photo, courtesy ZD Wines. Conference photo by Tim Kennedy. All rights reserved.