Lodi worked for 25 years to become an overnight success. It improved its viticulture, winemaking, and urban infrastructure. Lodi reached out to press and consumers and Lodi spent money on marketing. Many Lodi growers and winemakers also shifted their varietal focus, to make wines which are not just relevant, but exciting, in today’s market. The latest evidence for this is the three-bottle sample pack of Lodi Albarino the wine association recently sent to writers.

Seriously, what other wine region outside of Spain has ever proactively sent writers a multi-winery set of Albarino? And Lodi not only did it with a straight face, they did it with enthusiasm. Three cheers for Lodi!

Lodi Albariño Reviews (in alphabetical order by winery)

2016 Bokisch Albariño Las Cerezas Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA, Lodi 90 12.5% 750ml $18

Bokisch Vineyards was the first Lodi producer to get behind Albariño (and several other Spanish varieties). Now, Bokisch offers three different, vineyard-designate, Lodi Albariño. This wine is 100% Albariño from 18-year old vines. The viticulture is certified organic and sustainable.

The wine fermented in stainless steel tank (55%) and neutral French oak, then aged six months in the same vessels. The oak didn’t contribute any of its signature aromas or flavors, but the gently evaporative barrels gave the wine compelling richness on the palate.

The 2016 Bokisch Las Cerezas Vineyard Lodi Albariño is lemon-gold in the glass with swirling aromas of tart apricot, peach blossom, Meyer lemon, sweet white flowers, and chalk. The tangy palate is medium-plus in body with smooth, glycerine viscosity that coats the mouth and prolongs the tasty finish. Flavors are much like the nose, with the addition of tangerine pith. The wine’s balance and mouthfeel make it a good candidate for drinking sans food, but also the presence to complement a range of meals. Try it with lightly grilled white fish under a fruit salsa, or Spanish ham and cheese croquettes. Drink now through 2021.

 Note: The Bokisch website is showing 2017 as the current vintage and a price of $23. But you should still be able to find the 2016 in stores and restaurants.

2017 Harney Lane Albariño Lodi 90 13.0% 750ml $20

Harney Lane made this wine from the Albariño vines behind their tasting room, grafted over from Chardonnay in 2006. The winemaking is similar to that of the Bokisch, with fermentation and brief aging in a combination of stainless and neutral French oak barrels. However, I suspect the percentage of oak was a little lower. This wine has less viscosity but more zip, despite the numbers which indicate slightly lower acidity.

The 2017 Harney Lane Lodi Albariño is light lemon-green in the glass with pretty, perfumed aromas of peach, vanilla, sweet citrus, and white flowers. The medium-bodied palate is zesty with dancing acidity and lively fruit. Its lengthy finish is clean, juicy and appetizingly mineral. Drink now through 2021.

2017 Klinker Brick Albariño Mokelumne River AVA, Lodi 88 13.0% 750ml screw cap $15

The Klinker Brick Lodi Albariño is a smooth, medium-bodied wine offering aromas and flavors of lemon, peach, and mineral. With clean, clear flavors, a screw cap closure, and value pricing, it’s just the thing for picnics—perhaps cold, fried chicken and salads.

Copyright Fred Swan 2018. Photos courtesy of Lodi Wine Commission and the respective wineries. All rights reserved.

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