Eighty Four is a side-project for Elias Fernandez (right) and Doug Shafer (left) of Shafer Vineyards. it commemorates 1984, the year they started working together at Shafer Vineyards. The Eighty Four brand three varietals which don’t appear under the Shafer Vineyards label: Albariño, Malbec and Petite Sirah.

The wines are available for purchase directly from their website or in person at Shafer Vineyards. However, the wines can’t be tasted at Shafer, nor does Eighty Four have its own tasting room elsewhere. Fortunately, I’ve got sample-based reviews right here!

2017 Eighty Four Albariño Carneros, Napa Valley 92 13.8% 750ml $28 

As long as Albariño has been growing in California, it’s been growing in Carneros. The region’s climate and soils seem very well-suited to it. Several very fine Albariño coming out of Carneros and this effort from Eighty Four is certainly among them.

The color is a rich yellow, but there’s no oak in this wine at all. It mingled with lees while aging four months, but only in stainless steel barrels. That produced a fine, lightly grippy texture on the palate, yet maintained freshness of fruit. And, with no malolactic fermentation, the wine is extremely juicy on the palate too.

Aromas and flavors include peach, kumquat, sweet herb, and gently tart, tropical fruit—plus mineral on the medium-bodied palate. The Eighty Four Albarino is elegantly flavorful and delightfully long. It’s good by itself, but will thrive with food. Bacalao croquettes would be perfect.

2014 Eighty Four Malbec Napa Valley 92 15.1% 750ml $48

This 100% Malbec is a youthful dark purple in the glass, despite its four-years of age. 20 months of that aging was in oak barrels, 50% of which were new. The nose shows that influence with intense notes of floral oak, charcoal and trail dust in front of jammy blackberry and blueberry syrup.

The medium-bodied palate is loaded with chewy tannins which soften after extensive decanting, creating a very nice mouthfeel. The flavors are intense and feature coconut, oak, blackberry jam, dark chocolate, mineral. Today, this wine wants braised meat or slow-smoked ribs with a thick bark. Holding it several years will bring more softness, balance and complexity. Best 2021-2030

2012 Eighty Four Petite Sirah Napa Valley 94 15.8% 750ml $50

A very good example of full-throttled Petite Sirah, this 100% varietal spent 40 months in 100% new French oak. The time no doubt taught it manners and softened its exterior, but the wine remains robust and masculine.

Intense aromas of five-spice, venison and dark chocolate lead into rich flavors of oak, dark chocolate, dried black fruit, charred oak and dark spice on the full-bodied, warming palate. The hearty, fine-grained tannins have a soft approach and firm core which persists through the long, peppery finish. Enjoy with grilled or braised red meat now through 2035.

Copyright Fred Swan 2018. Photo courtesy of Eight Four. All rights reserved.