When Stuart Smith founded Smith-Madrone in 1971, just two vineyards existed on Spring Mountain. Napa Valley overall hosted only 30 or so wineries. Since then, of course, the wine Napa Valley wine industry has exploded, with wineries tallying 700+ and total planted acres rising from about 13,000 to 45,000.

Today, Napa Valley is globally recognized as a world-class wine region, particularly for rich Cabernet Sauvignon. Most wine enthusiasts also know it for Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. But Riesling? 

These days, it seems an odd choice for Napa Valley. We primarily associate Riesling with the cool-climate regions of Germany or, in this country, New York’s Finger Lakes. Yet Napa Valley has a long heritage of Riesling production. Many of the region’s 19th century, viticultural  pioneers hailed from Germany and their initial plantings were Riesling, along with Gutedel [aka Chasselas]. Even a century later, when Smith established his vineyard, there was almost as much Riesling in the valley as Chardonnay [517 acres vs. 785]. Chenin Blanc and Colombard were the only other white varieties more prevalent than Riesling in 1971.

Smith’s planting of Riesling was a likely choice back then and wouldn’t have raised any eyebrows. What is surprising—and admirable—is that Smith-Madrone still produces Riesling, despite the tide of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay which has swept the valley since. There’s just a handful of Napa Valley Riesling producers today and it accounts for less than 300 of the 43,000 tons of white grapes crushed there annually.

As they stuck with Riesling, Smith-Madrone has also stood by their original winery building, traditional winemaking approach, and producing wines that are about balance and drinking pleasure, rather than impact and opacity. This is expected of Riesling, but applies equally to the Smith-Madrone Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines.

Like their Cabernet Sauvignon, Smith-Madrone Riesling ages beautifully. A recent seminar I conducted highlighted this fact. Part of my educational conference for wine writers (Wine Writers’ Educational Tour or WWET held this past May in Napa Valley), the session brought together five of the valley’s modern legends of winemaking and viticulture to discuss the past 50 years in Napa and pour both current releases and library wines. Most participants brought Cabernet Sauvignon, which were all excellent. But Stu brought his 2015 and 2008 Rieslings; the writers fell in love.

In the video below, recorded by Tim Kennedy of Napa Films at that WWET conference session, Stu covers a number of topics, including his founding of the Smith-Madrone and details on Riesling, the style he pursues, and more. [To his left at the table are Lee Hudson (Hudson Vineyards), Stacey Clark (Charles Krug Winery), Genevieve Janssens (Robert Mondavi Winery) and Randy Dunn (Dunn Vineyard).]

Reviews of Current Smith-Madrone Releases (based on samples)

2015 Smith-Madrone Riesling Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 92+ 12.6% 750ml $32

There’s substantial complexity to this wine both aromatically and in the mouth. Look for white flowers, underripe nectarine, pineapple, lemon-lime slate and a faint note of kerosene. The flavors are very long, more intense than the nose and carried alternately by waves of acidity and super-fine, brushed suede texture. Drink now though 2030.

Smith-Madrone sometimes sells library vintages of their Riesling. The current offering is 2006.

2014 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 94 13.9 750ml $52

A very generous Cabernet on nose and palate with classic notes of dried leaves, cassis, mocha, black raspberry, milk chocolate, spice and oak. It’s full-bodied and luxurious, yet juicy, in the mouth with very fine, softly chalky tannins, and an extremely long finish. Delightful now but will age until 2030+

2012 Smith-Madrone Cook’s Flat Reserve Red Wine, Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 96 14.3% 750ml $225

This special, single-vineyard wine from the Smith-Madrone estate is a current release, having been given extra aging in both barrel and bottle. It’s a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot from vines planted in 1972 in a historic, eight-acre plot. Only 112 cases were made.

The Smith-Madrone Cook’s Flat Reserve is layered and profound with classic Bordeaux-blend hallmarks. The expressive nose offers black currant, iron, graphite, dried bay leaf, mint and aged wood. The palate is medium-plus in body building to full with air. A plethora of plush, fine-grained tannins provide structure and carry flavors though the very extended finish.

While the nose is predominantly savory, the palate is fruit-driven with rich black currant wrapped in dark chocolate and accented by cedar. With air, the palate becomes increasingly savory, emphasizing mineral and bay leaf characters. The wine’s ready to drink now, but will age and gain further complexity at least another 20 years.

Copyright 2018 Fred Swan. All rights reserved.

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