In 1973, Jospeh Phelps bought a former cattle ranch—760 acres in eastern St. Helena—in order to plant a vineyard. Based in Colorado, his business was construction but wine had long been an enthusiasm, drinking it of course, but also making it in his basement from purchased fruit. After doing an increasing amount of work in the Bay Area, and having built Souverain Winery in Napa Valley, his passion for wine drove him to enter the business himself.

At the time, there were only about 30 wineries in Napa Valley. Yet, given the relatively small size of the market, Napa’s still under-the-radar status before the Paris Tasting of 1976, and the extent of other agriculture in the sleepy, little valley, Phelps figured there was only room for a couple more vineyards and wineries. So he was very careful in selecting a site, paying close attention to geology, topography, etc.

He built his winery on that land too, finishing it just in time for the harvest of 1974. His winemaker, Walter Schug, made two wines that year from purchased fruit. One was America’s first varietally-labeled Syrah. The other was Insignia.

A great wine from the outset, Insignia’s reputation grew quickly. It remains one of Napa Valley’s most iconic wines. And it drew consumers to the winery. Yet, through the 1970’s and 1980’s, hospitality there remained old school, limited to selling wine through a Dutch door.

As wine tourism became an increasingly important part of Napa Valley’s business in the 1990’s, Phelps repurposed one of their buildings to serve as a tasting room. But the consumer experience there, while comfortable and friendly, remained minimal. As of late last year, that has changed dramatically.

The central hall at Joseph Phelps Vineyards

Joseph Phelps Vineyards undertook a massive renovation project. They moved wine production to a different location on their extensive property. The original winery, impressive to begin with but now beautifully enhanced, has become a world-class center for wine hospitality.

For some time, Phelps has drawn as many as 40,000 visitors per year. The intent of the re-architecting was not to increase that number, but to significantly improve the experience for those who do go.

Phelps is still a family-owned and operated winery, now in its third generation. I toured the revitalized property with Will Phelps, director of marketing and a grandson of founder Joseph Phelps. He is, of course, well aware of the range of experiences Napa Valley wineries offer. He told me the winery “wants to be known for gracious, warm hospitality and a living room environment. We don’t want it to be snooty,” he continued. “We want to be fun and interesting, a welcoming spot.”

That’s definitely the vibe I got as we wandered through the facility. Very high ceilings give it an airy feel, as do the many floor-to-ceiling windows, some of which open fully onto the vineyard-facing terrace. In the wide central hall, comfortable leather chairs and couches surround coffee tables. That hall is flanked by rooms on both sides, used for private tastings and classes, but their walls are largely glass which maintains the open feeling.

Tasting experiences aren’t just about wine and design though. People are key. Consumers want to feel looked after, learn about the wines and vineyards, and hear stories. Phelps has more than 30 wine educators on staff. And, to accommodate events and tastings with food, there is a very large, commercial kitchen in the building too.

The winery is open to visitors, by appointment, seven days a week. There are many experiences to choose from. Those include a seated tasting on the terrace, a blending exercise with Insignia component wines, tasting six single-vineyard wines, learning about oak aging with Cabernet Sauvignon held in different barrels, wine and cheese pairings, a Napa Valley Rocks seminar, seven-wine Insignia vertical tastings and more.

More about Joseph Phelps Vineyards

All of Phelps Napa Valley wines are 100% estate. In addition to the main, Home Ranch vineyard, Phelps owns other properties in Napa Valley totaling 390 acres. They grow red Bordeaux varieties, Sauvignon Blanc and Scheurebe, a white grape they use to make ice wine.

In the late 1990’s Phelps purchased properties on the Sonoma Coast near Freestone too. They were planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 2000 and 2001. In 2007, Phelps released its first cool-climate wines from those sites, the wines being made at their own facility near the vineyards.

Though Phelps’ vineyards are no longer certified biodynamic, they are largely farmed using those principles. Phelps planted fruit and olive trees for biodiversity. There bee boxes and sheep are brought in periodically to feed and reinvigorate the soil. Pomace—grape skins and seeds leftover after wine production—is composted and used in the vineyard.

Notes on 13 Vintages of Joseph Phelps Insignia

I wrote more about the history of Insignia, and notes from a recent vertical tasting here on the JJ Buckley blog.

Current Releases

2014 Joseph Phelps Chardonnay Freestone Vineyards Sonoma Coast 92 13.5% 750ml $55
Pretty, focused aromas and flavors of yellow apple, cinnamon, nutmeg and lemon curd. Medium body and very juicy on the palate with a lovely mouthfeel and great length.

2014 Joseph Phelps Pinot Noir Freestone Vineyards Sonoma Coast 92 14.1% 750ml $55
Aromas of brown spice, tangy macerated strawberry, pomegranate, dried flowers, raspberry and tea. Those elements show on the palate too, as do rose petal, wood and a pinch of brown sugar. Lithe and medium-bodied, appetizingly juicy and long.

2013 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 91+ 14.5% 750ml $75
Powerfully aromatic: allspice, coconut, black currant jam, wood, blackberry and a handful of leaves. Medium+ body with freshness balancing the persistent, fine-grained texture, black fruit and dark chocolate.

2013 Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 97+ 14.5% 750ml $250
An absolutely gorgeous wine with entrancing aromas of black currant, dry bay leaf, dark spice, vanilla and oak. The black cherry–mocha palate is full-bodied and replete with velvety texture yet persistently juicy. The finish goes on for several minutes.

Copyright Fred Swan 2017. Photos courtesy of Joseph Phelps Vineyards. All rights reserved.