Part of the Bien Nacido Vineyard, a source for Bonny Doon Syrah

All of the wines reviewed here are quite good. Please know though that every one of them craves air and/or sometime Doon in the cellar.

My regular review methodology includes tasting wines repeatedly over the course of three days. I open  wines at proper temperature, taste it and write notes. Then I reseal the wines, without vacuum or the like, and put whites in the refrigerator, reds in my 58 degree-ish cellar. I repeat the process over the next two or three days.

There are three primary reasons for this:

• It helps in judging a wine’s capacity to age.
• It allows tightly wound wines to open up and better show their potential.
• One’s perception of wine changes a bit from day to day, based on the environment, what was eaten for breakfast, etc. Multiple tastings help even things out.

In the case of the Bonny Doon reds reviewed below, every single one of them was better on the third day than the first. In some cases, the difference was significant. So, if you open these in the next year or so, a thorough decanting will make the wine, and you, happy.

2012 Bonny Doon Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard X-Block Santa Maria Valley 94 13.0% 750ml screwcap $50

Randall Grahm is one of this country’s pioneers of Rhone variety wines. The Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley AVA of Santa Barbara County, and it’s X-Block in particular, is among our very best sources for Syrah. So, Bonny Doon Syrah from that site is pretty much a guaranteed winner. The 2012 vintage delivers on that.

Bien Nacido Syrah is typically savory. That is exemplified here by dark earth, tar and black pepper aromas which balance mountain blackberry and black plum fruit. That black fruit is shows on the palate as well, but is surrounded by dark minerality, iron and garrigue. Body is medium with moderate tannins that are very fine, softly chalky and balanced by juiciness. The finish is very long.

This wine starts out extremely savory, the fruit emerging and becoming richer with air. A good candidate for aging, especially given the screw cap. Drink now through 2026+.

2013 Bonny Doon Syrah “Le Pousseur” Central Coast 92 13.5% 750ml screwcap $26

The 2013 Bonny Doon Le Pousseur is the yang to the Bonny Doon X-Block’s yin. This wine starts out fruity and becomes more savory as it opens up. The Syrah mix is 63% Bien Nacido, 34% Alamo Creek (just outside Santa Maria Valley AVA) and 3% Ventana (Arroyo Seco AVA).

The nose shows ripe plum and blackberry, earth, spice, a pile of raked leaves and herb. In the mouth body, texture and freshness are all moderate. The tannins are fine and plush. Flavors match the nose with the addition of a ferrous note. Medium+ length. An excellent value. Drink now through 2022+.

2012 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant Central Coast 90+ 13.5% 750ml screw cap $45

Moderately intense aromas and flavors of dark plum skin and herb. Medium+ body with very fine texture and a generous, juicy finish. This blend of 33% Mourvedre, 26% Grenache, 26% Syrah and 2% Cinsault will drink very well over the next ten years. Decant.

2012 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant Reserve Central Coast 93 13.5% 750ml screw cap $60

The blend here is identical to that of the non-Reserve Cigare Volant. The difference between the two wines is that the Reserve aged for some time on its lees in 20 liter glass carboys. The result is more complexity and muscularity,  greater intensity and a deeper voice.

Plum, cherry skin and blueberry feature on the nose. That fruit is core to the palate, joined by dark earth. Body is medium+ with structure a deft balance of juiciness and very fine, chalky tannin. The finish is harmonious and very long. Drink now (decant!) through 2030.

2014 Bonny Doon Old Telegram Contra Costa County 92 13.9% 750ml screw cap $45

Bonny Doon Old Telegram is 100% Mourvedre from the Del Barba Vineyard in Contra Costa County. That region is rarely spoken of, but yields some superb Zinfandel and red Rhone fruit.

The fruit-driven nose is fetching, dark red cherry with a hint of chocolate. Dry basil is present initially, but disappears when the wine has gotten a good breath of air. In the mouth, stewed sour cherry, dark berries, dark chocolate and mineral are framed by velvety tannins. Enjoy over the next five to seven years.

You may also be interested in my reviews of Bonny Doon white wines.

Copyright Fred Swan 2016. All rights reserved.