Drink Gamay! Chateau de la Chaize reviewed
“If a space alien came to earth and asked you about wine, what would you tell them?” Alice Feiring got that question in 2009 after her keynote address at the North American Wine Bloggers’ Conference in Sonoma. Her answer? “Drink Gamay.”
That was not an answer anyone expected. People anticipated something more descriptive, not a varietal recommendation. And, given the location of that year’s conference, the dearth of Gamay in California and the vast popularity of other varieties, more than a few bloggers thought perhaps Alice herself was from outer space.
But it was a decent answer to a somewhat goofy question. Gamay is very drinkable, not a bad choice for thirsty Martians. And Gamay is less frequently manipulated in the way many other varieties are. Oak usage is measured, bags of tannin or acid are less frequently employed, etc.
Gamay tends to be pretty wine-like in a traditional sense. Alcohol is moderate. There are fruity notes on the nose and palate, but also savory elements. Simplicity of process and Gamay’s innate transparency allows terroir to shine through.
So, if you’re expecting extra-terrestrial guests, are planning a Star Wars- or Star Trek-themed Halloween party, or find yourself in need of a tasty quaff, I agree with Alice. Drink Gamay. Here are a couple that were transported to me recently.
Both of these wines from Chateau de la Chaize are made using semi-carbonic maceration which accentuates fruity character. The grapes, 100% Gamay, are grown on the granitic soil for which Beaujolais is well-known. Fermentation takes place in cooled stainless steel tanks. After pressing, the wine is aged in foudres, very large oak barrels that contribute less oak character to wine than standard barrels.
2014 Chateau de la Chaize Brouilly Beaujolais 88 12.5% 750ml $20
The aromas and flavors are fruit-driven—ripe black plum and blackberry—but there are also spice and a clear voice of dark mineral. The palate is medium in body and lightly juicy with a dusting of fine, chalky texture. It’s ready to enjoy now, but is best allowed some time to breathe.
2013 Chateau de la Chaize “Vielles Vignes” Brouilly Beaujolais 89 13.0% 750ml $25
The nose leads with sweet herb then moves to blueberry, black pepper and tar. In the mouth, body approaches medium+. There is moderate juiciness and very fine but persistent texture. The flavors are mostly dark fruited but dark spice and mineral take center stage on the finish. Try it with charcuterie or braised duck.
Copyright Fred Swan 2016. Photo courtesy of Chateau de la Chaize. All rights reserved.
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