The label of Nimmo, one of Markus Wine Co.’s unique white wines.

Markus Niggli, winemaker at Borra Vineyards in Lodi, has been releasing imaginative white wines under his own Markus Wine Co. label for a few years now. The wines are all blends, typically using grapes most often found in Germany.

Markus is originally from Switzerland, so blends such as these are something he knows well. The unlikely but serendipitous focus of Lodi’s Mokelumne Glen Vineyard on German varieties gives Markus plenty of options from which to choose. The outlier in the assortment below is a Torrontes from another Lodi vineyard with an unconventional focus, Silvaspoons which specializes in Portuguese varieties.

2014 Markus Wine Co. Nimmo White Wine Lodi 89 13.8% 750ml screwcap $22

Nimmo is a blend of Kerner (70%), Gewurtztraminer (13%), Riesling (11%) and Bacchus (5%). The grapes are picked with fresh acidity and fermented with native yeast. Malolactic fermentation is prevented to keep the wine light and juicy. Instead, softening is achieved through  aging in French oak barrels, 60% new. This adds texture, complementary flavors and creates a wine that evolves nicely with bottle age.

The 2014 Markus Nimmo is a new release and, bottled under screwcap, is very early in its development. The color is pale lemon-green and the youthful aromas feature pear blossoms and pretty oak. The dry, medium-bodied palate and long finish are quite juicy with a very fine, silky texture. Flavors include preserved lemon, tart green apple, under-ripe peach and white flowers.

I have tried previous vintages on numerous occasions and, with age, the oak recedes, acidity maintains and complexity builds. Best 2018-2021.

Kerner is a cross of Riesling and Trollinger. It has a similar characteristics to Riesling, but is fuller in the mouth with a little less acidity.

2015 Markus Wine Co. Nativo White Wine 89 13.2% 750ml $19

The blend in 2015 Markus Nativo is a similar to that of the Nimmo: Kerner (52%), Riesling (29%), Bacchus (15%) and Gewurtztraminer (4%). However, the winemaking is different. Fermentation is stopped early to leave some residual sugar. There is no oak aging.

Nativo is water-white in the glass with delicate aromas and flavors of peach and white flowers. The palate is off-dry (3.5 g/L RS) and mouth-filling yet fresh. The finish is juicy and brings some minerality. Try it with mild white cheeses or even fondue.

2015 Markus Wine Co. Joey Insieme White Wine Lodi 89 13.0% 750ml $19

Pretty fragrances of rose petal, lychee fruit and apricot precede a surprisingly fresh, very finely textured palate. Flavors echo the nose with flowers, stone fruit and lychee but morph into minerality on the extended finish. Very nice.

This wine is a blend of Torrontes (95%) and Traminette. Torrontes is most-commonly found in Argentina and can be thought of as similar to, but lighter than, Gewurtztraminer. Traminette is a cross between Gewurtztraminer and a French-American hybrid. It was created to provide a Gewurtztraminer drinking experience but be easier to grow in areas with difficult weather.

Copyright Fred Swan 2016. All rights reserved.