The entrance to Hourglass’ winery, embedded within the mountain.

These two 2013 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon represent the winery’s two very different estate vineyards in Napa Valley. Winemaker Tony Biagi uses similar techniques on both wines. So, terroir, and the 10% non-Cabernet fruit in the Blueline, account for the differences in the two bottlings.

The Hourglass Vineyard name reflects its location within Napa Valley. The four-acre plot lies on Lodi Lane in St. Helena where the Mayacamas and Vaca Mountain ranges converge tightly. On a map, this coming together of ranges makes the valley resemble an hourglass. This shapes also increases wind speed in the area.

The vineyard was originally planted with Zinfandel in 1977 and re-planted with Cabernet Sauvignon in 1992. They vines have an eastern facing, avoiding the relatively strong afternoon sun. The property has a slight roll to it, but only runs from o’ to 70′ above sea level. Soil is Hambright series which is well-draining and predominantly broken down volcanic rock.

The Blueline Vineyard is farther north and east in Dutch Henry Canyon. Two streams, represented by blue lines on maps, bracket the 20-acre vineyard, hence the name. The land moves from valley floor to low bench. The Vaca Mountains create morning shade but, warm air rising from the vineyard late in the day is replaced by cold, mountain air.

The vines used for the wine below were planted in 2007. The soil is varied, a combination of deep, valley floor loam, gravel and earth washed down from the hillside and decomposed volcanic ash.

2013 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon Blueline 92 14.8% 750ml $125

90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot from Hourglass’ Blueline Estate vineyard in Calistoga. The wine was aged 21 months in new French oak barrels.

Opaque ruby-purple in the glass and slightly closed on the nose but showing black currant and blackberry. The palate is nearly full-bodied and quite long with good intensity. There’s more black currant and blackberry plus mocha, charred oak and dark spice. This is a very fine, young Cabernet Sauvignon which will benefit from a little time in the cellar. Best 2018-2023.

2013 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 93+ 14.3% 750ml $165

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Hourglass Estate Vineyard in St. Helena. 22 months in new French oak.

Opaque, inky purple and powerfully aromatic. Look for dusty dark fruit, especially black cherry, bay leaf and brown spice. Those show on the long palate too, along with generous oak. The wine is full-bodied with well-integrated, very-fined grained tannins.

Copyright Fred Swan 2016. Photo courtesy of Hourglass Wines. All rights reserved.