A Markgraf von Baden vineyard overlooks both the winery and Lake Constance.

“A rose by any other name would smell as sweet,” quoth Shakespeare’s Juliet. She could not have said the same for Pinot Noir. In Germany, Pinot Noir goes by the name Spatburgunder. By that moniker, Pinot Noir is fascinatingly smoky and savory, not so sweetly fruited as in most other regions.

This adds variety to the variety. It is a whole different Pinot Noir with which to pair food. Wines such as Markgraf von Baden Spatburgunder are Pinot Noir to enjoy as smooth and light alternatives to peaty, single-malt Scotch.

The two wines below are huntsmen’s Pinot if you will. They will pair marvelously with hearty meals of grilled weisswurst, boar stew or baked ham (without the sweet glaze, bitte). Or, take them out for Chinese food. Order tea-smoked duck (or chicken).

2013 Markgraf von Baden Spatburgunder Trocken “Bermatinger” Bodensee Germany 90 12.5% 750ml screwcap $14

A lithe and savory Pinot Noir with aromas of smoke, earth, black tea, singed cedar and pretty, dark red cherries. Flavors of smoke, earth, singed cedar, pretty red cherries and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied, satin smooth and carries itself lightly. Flavors echo the nose and add dried bay leaf. Enjoy it over the next two years.

2011 Markgraf von Baden Spatburgunder Trocken “Gailinger Schloss Rheinburg” Bodensee Germany 91+ 12.5% 750ml $25

More intense and lengthy than the Bermatinger, yet still savory and elegantly flavorful. It smells of  rose hip tea, smoke, dry tobacco, earth, dark red cherries and dark flowers. The body is medium with almost subliminal fine, chalky tannins and distinct juiciness. Flavors are consistent with the nose, but place more emphasis on the floral aspect. Drink now through 2019.

Where is Bodenesee?

Bodensee is a wine region in southwestern Germany, within the larger wine region of Baden. Bodensee takes it’s name from the lake, Bodensee aka Lake Constance, which dominates that area. The landscape there is lovely and it’s an extremely popular tourist destination. Thisää zone is also unique as it is nearly an intersection of three countries and a principality: Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Liechtenstein.

Copyright Fred Swan 2016. All rights reserved.