A look at Ehlers Estate from the east side.

Merlot! That was just a warning shot, to get you used to the idea that I’m going to recommend a Merlot. REALLY recommend a Merlot.

Merlot was good wine before it was a punch line. In between, Merlot became a victim of its own success, eventually a victim of its own excess.

But there is still a lot of great Merlot out there. Take Ehlers Estate Merlot from St. Helena. That winery was founded by Merlot lovers (French!) and the winemaker, who has serious Merlot-making cred himself (internship at Chateau Petrus!), treats the variety with appropriate respect.

Ehlers Estate lies in northern St. Helena where Napa Valley is at its narrowest point between the Mayacamas and Vaca Mountain ranges. So, while it may appear to be valley floor, the estate vineyard is actually bench land with substantially volcanic soils. The narrowing valley also increases wind speed, providing the grapes with welcome cooling.

“Tannin quality defines great terroir.” — Kevin Morrisey, Ehlers Estate winemaker

The vineyard has a long history, first planted about 130 years ago. But, after a long period of disuse, Jean and Sylvaine Leducq purchased the property and replanted it in 1995. Jacques Boissenot, a renowned consultant with clients such as Chateaux Margaux, Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Leoville-Las-Cases and more, guided their decisions on selection (varieties, clones and rootstocks) and planting. The 42-acre vineyard is certified organic.

The grapes are hand-harvested, de-stemmed and then fed, whole berry, into stainless steel fermentation tanks by hand. In tank, the juice is pumped over three to four times per day. After fermentation, the wine ages in a selection of French oak barrels (50% new) and is racked quarterly.

“When I blend, I don’t get too concerned about flavors, because they will change so much. If the wine has structure and balance when it goes into the bottle it will be good.” — Kevin Morrisey

2013 Ehlers Estate Merlot St. Helena Napa Valley 93+ pts 14.2% 750ml $55

The appearance, medium+ ruby rather than opaque and extracted, is the first sign of good things here. The nose is both lovely and exuberant: red cherry, boysenberry jam, gentle spice, cocoa and a hint of herb (perhaps from the 5% of Cabernet Franc). It’s graceful in the mouth with medium+ body and silk shantung texture. There’s freshness to the wine and a long finish. It may change your mind about Merlot.

Copyright Fred Swan 2016. All rights reserved.